North Korea

August 18, 2014


Monument to the Korean Workers Party
Nine days in North Korea.
Hard to convey such an experience.

Nervously landed at the Pyongyang airport expecting to be interrogated and every item scrutinized. Instead I effortlessly strolled through immigration and customs.

As long as I follow orders ― don't venture away from the guides, don't take unflattering photos, don't leave Bibles ― it looks like I'm safe for the duration. 

Pyongyang

Despite its three million people, Pyongyang is the ultimate in clean, uncluttered minimalism ― wide boulevards with few cars or bikes, wide sidewalks with few pedestrians, and streamlined buildings with few signs. No initially visible stores anywhere.

The sparse cityscape is, however, filled with enormous monuments and murals of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il as well as billboards and mosaics in the socialist realist style exhorting the people forward for the fatherland.


Juche Tower viewed from Kim Il-Sung Square
Since North Korea's per capita income is estimated at less than one-fifteen that of South Korea ($1,800 vs. $32,400), I'm shocked by the modern feel of Pyongyang, even though I know it's the showcase city and home of the DPRK elite.

The one and only time I happened to find an actual store for residents (not tourists) to shop I was told we were not allowed inside. We were however taken to many tourist places to buy books, posters, trinkets, and other souvenirs.
 

The tall building on the island is our tolerable Yanggakdo Hotel where tourists can be easily sequestered.
Unfinished Ryugyong Hotel

The infamous, still uncompleted Ryugyong Hotel (pic on right) was begun in 1987, but has suffered repeated delays in construction. At 105 floors, it is easily the tallest building in Pyongyang. While its interior is still apparently a nightmare, externally, the pyramid is extraordinary.

Streets in Kaesŏng (near the DMZ) were also wide, clean, and largely empty.

Monuments

Tourism in the "Democratic People's Republic of Korea" (DPRK) requires seeing many grand monuments to Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il as well as other monuments in heroic, patriotic styles.

What you do not see anywhere is Marx or Lenin. "Communism" has even been removed from the constitution. The hammers and sickle (plus pen) are all that remain. Yet, the DPRK is even more totally state-run than the USSR ever was.

Curiously, the newest heir ― Kim Jong-un ― has not yet been added to the pantheons.


An Arch of Triumph ten meters higher than the one in Paris.

Local tourists walk by one of twelve huge statues flanking the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum.


Posters

Western, post-modern, ironic tastes see the unrestrained socialism realism of North Korean posters as gloriously cool kitsch. My "fellow travelers" snatched them up as amusing souvenirs. I resisted purchases but found them fascinating nonetheless.





Morning commuters in the small city of Kaesŏng
People
Our group on the day we were told to dress up
to see the embalmed bodies of Kim Jong Il
and Kim Il Sung at the Geumsusan Memorial Palace.

We tourists seemed invisible to people on the street, outside of a few covertly curious kids. Except for two obviously staged encounters, most people studiously ignored us the whole trip.

The only slovenly dressed people we saw were tourists. North Koreans on the street, without exception, were dressed nicely in crisp slacks or skirts, or dresses and suits, never jeans or shorts. Presumably this reflects more than mere fashion trends.

The language barrier (and our two watchful minders) prevented any real conversation with ordinary people. A Korean-speaking tourist told me his one chance for a simple chat was abruptly stopped by one of his group's guides.

Some hotel staff and all guides at monuments wore traditional Korean dresses, not seen elsewhere.
Neat school children at a museum.
(The one and only time we saw a few children dressed in
less than pristine clothes we were told to delete the photos.)
Not sure about the presumably non-Army uniforms but like my pic.
Afternoon in the park
Women and kids on the metro.
Afternoon volleyball game between two work groups.
We were told the thousands of school kids on their way to a large stadium
when school was not in session were all going to a soccer match. (?)
L: At the DMZ with a friendly North Korean soldier/guide who wanted to spar over US policy
C: At emperor Kongmin's tomb near Kaesŏng with our sweet guide between statutes of civil servants
R: With a smart, easygoing bloke from Newcastle, another one of the cool Brits in the small group.


Other Sights

Shorter tours were available but I wanted to venture outside the capital. We went south to  Kaesŏng and the DMZ at Panmunjeom, to the key port of Nampho, and north to Mt. Myohyang.

Our standard tourists stops also included the acrobatics show, performances at the Children's Palace, a film production set, an art gallery, two restored Buddhist temples, a major dam, a steel plant, the main city park, the short city metro, a carnival, and other museums.

One of the better stops on the short metro line.
Conclusion of a show of remarkably talented young performers at the Mangyongdae Children's Palace.
Lined up to see the American humiliation and DPRK's triumph:
the US spy ship captured in 1968 (USS Pueblo) with the
captain and crew released months later after they confessed.
Reunification Arch on the road to the DMZ symbolizing the uniting of North and South.
When asked, our guide said seriously that the reason that the
largely empty "Reunification Highway" from Pyongyang to the DMZ
border was so huge was for symmetry with another highway.
Reflections

Tourists visiting dictatorships are often so astonished to see people living seemingly normal lives in better than expected conditions ― and the absence of conspicuous coercion and visible brutality on street corners ― that they draw naive conclusions.

In this case, the regime's desperation to prove its legitimacy, its incessant propaganda, its lavish spending on self-glorification, and its fear of dissent was so evident that ― even with careful monitoring by nervous guides and confinement to the most presentable parts of the DPRK ― it was hard to be too gullible.

At the same time, attempting a little nuance here, one must still marvel at the capacity of such a regime to impose so much absolute "order" on 26 million people. Despite one required deletion, my photos present what we were shown ― spotless cities; superb child musicians; striking monuments; and deferential, healthy looking (trim but not gaunt), well dressed citizens bowing deeply (if not freely) to the rulers.

Famous satellite photo of the
Korean peninsular at night.
Those who want more than passing travel photos regarding mysteries of the DPRK may want to consult, not just the Google Earth photos, but the outstanding North Korea Watch web site (including interesting tourism news) and some of the following books: