Canada ~ Train

31 August 2025

Waking up on a train across Canada, I saw this sunrise over an Ontario lake.

Our Alaska cruise ended in Vancouver and I always wanted to cross Canada by train...

Ideally, I should have first taken the Rocky Mountaineer ("a luxury daylight-only sightseeing train that glides through the Rockies with panoramic glass-dome coaches and overnight hotel stays") in British Columbia and Alberta — then switched to the VIA Rail sleeper train (The Canadian) to continue on to Toronto.

Instead, after four months of travel, I chose the lazy, easy, uncomplicated, more affordable sleeper train all the way — even though it was dark when crossing some of the most dramatic parts of the Rockies.

Before my trans-Canadian train departed, I had two days to explore the city everyone loves: peaceful and pretty Vancouver. I joined the fan club. My two favorite places were (1) big, beautiful, Stanley Park featuring, among other things, this striking cluster of totem poles; and (2) the Granville Island Public Market, a vibrant, mouth-watering culinary hub.
 
And we're off on a late, late afternoon start, but the train is nice, not luxurious but perfectly fine. And the dome cars are ideal for 360° scenic views, despite the drizzle.

The next morning, we saw the first of many lakes that would line our journey. This one (Moose Lake, I think) had the most teal water that I saw.

We slowed down a bit to view beautiful Pyramid Falls. Apparently, the best place to see this waterfall is actually from our train.

Admiring the majestic panoramas of British Columbia from the dome.


Crossing over into Alberta, our next train station was in the middle of Jasper. Happily, we had an hour to explore the little tourist town. Loved the totem pole. Not so crazy about the goofy mascot "Jasper the Bear."


Part of the Jasper National Park, I think.

Gradually across Alberta, the mountains became less rocky and less towering.


Sadly, our station in Edmonton was on the outskirts of the city. I was about to race to the city center — after all, it is the capital of Alberta. However, it was almost rush hour and what if I were caught in traffic? Still, I resolved to gamble if I had another chance.



We caught a fleeting glimpse of these mountain goats and a few of them reciprocated with a quick nonchalant look at our speeding train.


Somewhere in eastern Alberta our train crossed the widest river of the trip. I just spent an hour trying to confirm the river's name. I suppose if failing to have GPS locations recorded on my phone's camera was the worst thing to happen, I'll manage.

Every day we could enjoy the raspy, soulful singing of Alex Montyro (see Bookie Baker), part of VIA Rail's "Artist on Board" program. 

On to the prairies of Saskatchewan. 

We had just hour stop at a remote station south of town, but I was determined see this city with the coolest names ever: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. An Uber was nearby. The driver loved the idea of a roundtrip race around city. He took me to see the sweet park along the river as well as the modest downtown. And we returned to the train with five minutes to spare.

At 2:00 am on a rainy night, the train stopped in Winnipeg to change crews and pick up supplies. I visited Winnipeg years ago so I saw no need to jump off and put my feet on the ground in Manitoba.

Rolling on in to Ontario, the lakes became even more plentiful. One after another. We might have lost the dazzling Rockies, but still had plenty of beauty to savor.

We had twenty-minute stops at each of these three little towns on the long journey across Ontario. Note that in Sioux Lookout, as the maroon awning shows above, the Ontario government's lottery ("Makin' millionaires happen!") is conveniently located next to the Ontario government's "Addiction Treatment Centre"! I'll resist cynical commentary.


While still in my bed (before folding it up into the wall), I took this photo of my little compartment. It actually wasn't bad and I had four restful nights of sleep while barreling across Canada. But a few moments later...

A few moments later our train stopped to let a freight train pass. Then I looked out my window at this spectacular sunrise.
If you search for the longest "single continuous passenger train (direct routes without changing trains)," various routes across Russia top the list, including the incredible Trans-Siberian Express. Outside of Russia, the next longest journey seems to be "my" VIA Rail train The Canadian which covers 2,775 miles (4,466 km) in four time zones over four days.

FYI: You'll get more daytime Rockies if you start in Toronto and head west. And VIA Rail offers both a more upscale option and a less private sleeper option than the intermediate "solo sleeper plus" that I took.

Almost forgot to mention: The food was quite good and the passengers from all over the world were friendly and fun. Overall, it was a splendid journey.