USA ~ SW Road Trip

16 April 2026

Obscure countries have been fun, but it's time to see more of the USA! Gemini generated this illustration of some highlights of my great Southwestern road trip.

Here is a more detailed map of our 16-day route along with the key destinations.

Las Vegas

My sister Kathy wanted to see the Wizard of Oz expanded by AI to fill up the Sphere in Las Vegas — and I was eager to experience the Sphere. Niece Lindsey joined us for a 48-hour round of Vegas shows and sightseeing.
A view of as much of the fantastic Sphere as my camera could capture from our seats.

Another view of the Sphere. This time from the new Ferris Wheel called "High Roller."   

We had good seats for two fantastic Cirque du Soleil productions.  (top photo) employs a massive hydraulic platform that tilts and spins as the gymnasts defy gravity. It was the best, most breathtaking Cirque-type show I've ever seen.

The lower photo is from O, a dreamlike aquatic spectacle where acrobats dive, soar, and vanish into a shifting pool with 1.5 million gallons of water.

On the downside, for variety I foolishly bought tickets to Blue Man Group. It was a slapstick riot when I saw it 20 years ago, but now the act has dissolved into a boring disaster.

Another highlight was pizza at Lago while looking out at the Bellagio fountains, the ersatz Eiffel Tower, and pseudo Paris. The next morning I waved goodbye to Kathy and Lindsey and drove to meet more family in Arizona.

Grand Canyon NP

In Flagstaff, I joined smart, sharp cousins Bruce and Chuck along with cousin-in-law author Jane (link to her books here). They proved to be upbeat and easygoing travel companions.  

Jane and I took a spectacular flight over the Grand Canyon. I could post several dozen more phenomenal photos of the buttes, mesas, and deep, labyrinthine gorges.

Back down on the ground, the sunset turned peaks orange and gold.

At the east end of Desert View Drive on the South Rim is the Desert View Watchtower, along with some especially dramatic vistas. This was our favorite observation point.

Bryce Canyon NP

The next day we had an interesting drive up US-89 North to UT-12 East.

Along the way we stopped at the Glen Canyon Dam Overlook where we got to see this deep Colorado River gorge. But on to Bryce...

I was blown away. Bryce Canyon holds the world’s largest concentration of hoodoos — thousands of slender stone spires packed into natural amphitheaters.

For nearly three miles, you'll see the astonishing assemblies of colorful, fragile-looking hoodoos sculpted by centuries of erosion. Incredible.

Capitol Reef NP

The drive from Bryce to Torrey on Utah's famously scenic U-12 was a nonstop parade of ever-changing landscapes — red canyons, slickrock domes, alpine forests, and open desert all in one drive.

The next morning we explored Capitol Reef NP, the least known of Utah's "Big 5" national parks. It needs a better publicist and a more catchy name perhaps. Happily for us, it was uncrowded early in the season.

Capitol Reef was a nice change of pace because this time we were down on the canyon floor, not just standing on overlooks. Plus, in the cool, crisp early morning, we had the hiking path in the deep gorge all to ourselves.

Jane enjoying the morning hike and Chuck taking photos of the sheer vertical canyon walls that left just enough room to carve a road for a stunning drive.

Bicentennial Highway (Utah SR-95)

This long remote road in Utah was not paved until 1976, hence the name "bicentennial highway." Like most of our other drives, SR-95 as well as 261 regularly treated us to amazing, unexpected vistas.

At one point we suddenly arrived at the Hite Overlook View and stood for a long time enjoying the dazzling scene. One key element (tiny in the photo because it was so far away) is the Hite Crossing bridge — the only vehicle crossing of the Colorado River for over 100 miles upstream and nearly 200 miles downstream!

At the Natural Bridges National Monument, I think this is the Owachomo Bridge.

But wait, there's more. Another shock awaited us when we got on Utah 261. Not only did we see a jaw-dropping view with a dramatic vertical fall to the plain below, but we also encountered Moki Dugway with its steep, unpaved, sharp switchbacks, descending 1,200 feet from the top of Cedar Mesa.

We next made the mistake of driving the loop through the so-called Valley of the Gods. This became our only serious road trip disappointment because, despite some handsome buttes, the gravel road was so tortuous (by far the worst of the trip) and long (over 90 minutes) that it failed the cost-benefit test. Happily, Utah soon raised our spirits and our suffering spines.

Utah's Goosenecks State Park overlooks a series of three tight horseshoe bends where the San Juan River has carved more than a thousand feet down into the desert plateau. I could only photograph one since I'd need a (forbidden) drone to photograph all three.

Awestruck yet again. Can the American West get any more wondrous? Well, Monument Valley comes next!

Monument Valley

Everyone wants to take a photo at so-called "Forrest Gump Point" on US-163 where Forrest ended his run. Over a dozen tourists have been killed here since the 1994 movie. Unwise for me to have raced out to take a photo.

The even more iconic vistas of Monument Valley were just around the corner.

This view that I'd seen in films my whole life was now the view from my hotel room. Seriously!

This is the panorama at John Ford Point, named for the director who brought Monument Valley to the world's attention with his movie Stagecoach in 1936 and later filmed many more Westerns here.
    
Below is a partial list of Hollywood films set here in whole or in part.


One morning we drove around the public loop of Monument Valley. That afternoon we took a Navajo-guided tour required to see the "backcountry" area which included this sandstone arch.


Canyon de Chelly, Bisti, and Chaco

On the drive south, we felt obliged to swing by Four Corners. On this cold, misty day, I had my left foot in Colorado and New Mexico while my right foot was in Utah and Arizona.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument is located in the Navajo Nation in northeastern Arizona. Its key landmark is Spider Rock, the two towers rising out of the canyon floor in the lower photo above — by far the most sensational viewpoint here.

Just when we thought we'd seen every unique topography in the Southwest, we saw the badlands of the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness Area in western New Mexico. Alas, you must do some serious hiking to see the real highlights and we did not have time, but my pic above offers a good hint.

The Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico was — over a thousand years ago — the center of a thriving, complex culture that constructed large stone buildings and long roads for widespread trade across the San Juan basin. Archaeologists are still trying to understand the rise and fall of Chaco.

The top photo shows Jane standing at the Great Kiva (a center for ceremonial gatherings) of Casa Rinconada. It was built around 1100 AD.

Taos

On the way to Taos, rising dramatically over 1,580 feet above the high-desert plain is Shiprock. It's actually much taller than Uluru (aka Ayers Rock) in Australia or Devils Tower in Wyoming. Alas, Shiprock is not as colorful as it appears in this painting by Julian Robles at the Parsons Gallery in Taos, but it is striking nonetheless.

Taos became an art colony in the early 1900s and this once small, remote mountain town has been an art center ever since. I enjoyed our two relaxing and nondriving days in Taos, especially exploring its many art galleries. My favorites were "The Ranch at Taos Gallery" (see the photo above with the influence of Georgia O'Keeffe on the right) and the extraordinary Parson Gallery of the West nearby, also on Kit Carson Street.

The striking Rio Grande Gorge Bridge spans a 650-foot deep chasm over the river far below. The steel arch design was the second-highest U.S. highway bridge when it opened in 1965. Now it is #6 and is a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark as well as a popular tourist destination.

The historic old San Francisco de Asís Parish Church is often described as "one of the most photographed and painted churches in the world." Modernists like Ansel Adams (left photo) and Georgia O'Keeffe (right painting) focused on the adobe buttresses at the back, instead of the front side that ordinary folks like me photograph.

100th Anniversary of Route 66

Serendipity strikes again. When I planned the basic itinerary I had no idea that 2026 was the centennial of the opening of historic Route 66. But I became fascinated and decided to zero in on some of 66's remnants along our route.

In Grapes of Wrath, Steinbeck called 66 the "mother road" because it was the lifeline for desperate Dust Bowl families heading west. Moreover, in the days before interstate highways, millions of others also relied on Rt 66 to go west during the decades before I-40 more or less replaced the Southwestern stretch of Rt 66 by the 1960s.

Popular culture cemented Route 66’s legend — from the song "Get Your Kicks on Route 66" (love the version above) to the 1960s TV show about two young guys drifting across America. For many of us, the images of neon motels, roadside oddities, and small‑town main streets still influence our image of the classic American road trip.

Like all other bypassed towns, Tucumcari, NM, suffered from the opening of I-40. But Tucumcari built this cool tribute to the late great Rt 66.

Perhaps the best remaining and still operating motel from the good ol' days is Tucumcari's now famous Blue Swallow Motel. Note that back in the day they wanted to advertise that the rooms came with TV sets and 100% cool air. This 1954 Buick Super Riviera is a sweet addition, although I'd still prefer a Corvette to cruise with Buz and Tod.

On the flat Texas panhandle, the town of Adrian boasts that this was the exact Rt 66 midpoint between Chicago and LA. Here we met a group of Polish tourists who were making the entire Rt 66 pilgrimage.

Must take my hat off to the massive Devil's Rope Museum in little McLean, Texas — said to have the world's largest collection of barbed wire and related items!

Among the "barbed wire adjacent" things was a big collection of manual post hole diggers (which brought back teen-age memories of my trying poorly to use them to dig holes for the posts for stringing barbed wire on our little farm).

Quick obligatory stop at Cadillac Ranch on the outskirts of Amarillo.

This Conoco Tower Station and U Drop Inn Café in Shamrock, Texas, has been called the most striking building on along the entire old Rt 66. To me, it's a fantastic rococo art deco concoction. It will be featured on one of the eight Rt 66 commemorative stamps to be issued May, 2026.


Clinton, Oklahoma, is home to a very good Route 66 museum. 

Hoping to capitalize on centennial nostalgia, several travel guides focus on Route 66. The best sellers are:


Palo Duro Canyon

Finally made it to beautiful Palo Duro Canyon in the panhandle of Texas. Always wanted to see the "Texas Grand Canyon" but it was seven hours away from central Texas where I grew up.

Didn't realize that Palo Duro is the second largest canyon the whole country! It's about 120 miles long, between 6 and 20 miles wide, and up to 800 feet deep.

Carved over millions of years by a fork of the Red River, Palo Duro was extra pretty at even this mediocre sunset.

Shawnee, Stillwater, & Oklahoma City

This was my first time to set foot in Oklahoma. The purpose was to see some old friends — Doug who I knew as a Baylor undergrad and his wife Kay in Shawnee, and Bob who was my outstanding mentor in grad school and later taught at Oklahoma State in Stillwater. Terrific to get to spend time with them again!

A gadget at the National Cowboy Museum took a photo of Doug and Kay and put them on a cattle drive. Since OSU teams are call "cowboys," I ask Gemini to transform a picture of Bob (an academic trailblazer) into a Western setting too.

Many consider the large, extensive National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City to be the premier institution of the history, art, and culture of the American West. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

On the other hand, going through the Oklahoma City National Memorial and Museum and focusing on the horrific 1995 bombing of the federal building was painful, despite the exhibits being well presented and highly informative.

Above is my photo of "the Survivor Tree," an American elm that miraculously survived all the devastation around it that day.

Oklahoma's Land Run Monument commemorates the chaotic frenzy in 1889 when part of the Oklahoma Territory was opened to non‑native settlement and thousands raced across the plains to claim homesteads.

I'd never seen anything quite like it. Stretching the length of a US football field (365 feet; 111 meters), the monument unfolds in a dynamic line of racing bronze figures (filled with vignettes). My photo above only shows only a fraction of the whole. The location is terrible for such an ambitious, unique monument but it is astonishing nonetheless.

Reflections

  • Almost everything we saw exceeded expectations — from the Bryce hoodoos to the barbed wire museum. I am thrilled to have taken this road trip.

  • Starting our travels in March, we took the risk of being a bit chilly in order to avoid crowds that arrive later in the spring. That worked out really well and we never encountered too many people. Plus, we were lucky and had unseasonably perfect (i.e. warmer) weather, except for two days. 

  • In planning, I successfully gambled that the long drives would be OK thanks to the dazzling, changing scenery and frequent, interesting stops. Plus we usually avoided two consecutive days of long drives by inserting at least two nights and a full day at the Grand Canyon, Capitol Reef, Monument Valley, Taos, and Shawnee.

  • Of course, clever, congenial travel companions made the long drives and everything else in the itinerary feel comfortable and smooth. They gambled that my complicated itinerary would work and thankfully it did. 

  • My travel calendar is filled for the rest of 2026 but after this extraordinary road trip, now I'm eager to prioritize the USA in 2027!