Sigüenza was a day trip from Madrid and located near the centerline of
totality.
Watched the eclipse with Kevin and Barbara (first-time eclipsers), along with
Hannah (17th time), by the castle walls.
At these gatherings, every chat starts with: "How many and which ones?" My
list is short compared to most, but it is still fun to exchange tales. So, I
had to check to be prepared:
- Spain (now added 2026)
- Texas (2024)
- Australia (2023)
- Oregon (2017)
- South Pacific (2010)
- China (2008)
-
Libya
(2006)
- Hungary (1999)
On the way to this eclipse, I
visited each of Spain's three largest cities.
BARCELONA
- Style and cosmopolitan glamor
- Architectural spectacle
- Catalan pride
- Progressive edge
- Tourist magnet
- Starring: Sagrada Família!
Top priority: Tour the dazzling, extraordinary, soaring Sagrada Família!
It's become the top tourist destination in Spain. Its expensive tickets
are sold out weeks in advance and are paying for the continued
construction.
This year when the cross was added to the main tower, the Sagrada
Família became the tallest church in the world. Four big towers at
the eventual main Glory entrance are yet to be completed, although its
central towers have now dramatically changed Barcelona's skyline. (My
photo above shows the side entrance which is currently used as the
primary entrance.)
Another Gaudí masterpiece (which almost avoided straight lines) is Casa
Batlló, inspired throughout by marine imagery, waves, and colors. Don't
miss the tour.
The core of Barcelona is beautifully designed with wide boulevards and
spacious walkways. But it can be so pleasant to walk along that you may
forget the most important thing: Looking up above the sidewalks!
My first day I was oblivious to all the style on display above me. But,
the second day I happened to look up and saw rows of elegant,
embellished, distinctive buildings. The grand façades along Passeig de
Gràcia are especially fantastic but the show is not confined there. Many
other streets, such as the Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, were filled
with handsome sculptural and ornate buildings as well.
VALENCIA
- Relaxed Mediterranean calm
- Paella & oranges & festivals
- Sunny authenticity
- Underrated third-city charm
- Starring: City of Arts & Sciences!
Beginning ambitiously in 1998, Valencia constructed a large "City of Arts
and Sciences," a striking, futuristic complex of gleaming white buildings
and reflecting pools, to house museums, an opera house, an oceanographic
center, and other cultural spaces. Quite impressive.
Perhaps Valencia wanted to announce that Barcelona did not have a monopoly
on dramatic architecture in Spain! A Valencian architect designed most of
these enormous structures that rise from a series of blue reflecting pools
like something out of a science-fiction film.
"L'Oceanogràfic" is the name for the sprawling oceanographic complex with
enormous aquariums representing the world's major marine ecosystems. It is
largest such complex in Europe and the only one with Beluga whales. They
were my favorites.
Since the glass was transparent, curious Belugas hung out near the glass to
look at the humans.
Regarding the photo above: Most whales were playing in front of crowds at
other windows nearby, but I asked a kind lady resting on a bench to take a
photo quickly when any Belugas swam over to this window and eventually got
lucky.
Iglesia San Nicolás Valencia has what is often called Valencia's "Sistine Chapel"
because its ceilings and arches display some 2,000 square meters of Baroque
frescos.
In Barcelona, I came across almost no graffiti. In Valencia, I saw somewhat
more ugly graffiti. I also saw more graffiti art like these examples above,
although the lower one has tag graffiti painted over the graffiti art.
I only had one full free afternoon in Madrid, but I'd visited the city in the past. What to do on one hot afternoon? Visit the Prado.
No photos allowed, of course, so I asked ChatGPT to make me this image
illustrating the Prado's top artist collections.
The Prado features comprehensive collections of Spain's three most famous masters:
MADRID
- Power and intensity
- Political nerve center
- Castilian pride
- Residual imperial grandeur
- Starring: The Prado!
I only had one full free afternoon in Madrid, but I'd visited the city in the past. What to do on one hot afternoon? Visit the Prado.
The Prado features comprehensive collections of Spain's three most famous masters:
- El Greco
- Diego Velázquez
- Francisco Goya.
The Prado is also home to some epic fantasies of Hieronymus Bosch, including
his infamous Garden of Earthly Delights, and many works by Rubens,
including his "dark" paintings, not just his buoyant, voluptuous women. All
in all, it was an interesting, impressive, air-conditioned afternoon.
Just double checked and indeed the Prado is still considered one of the world's best art museums, along with the Louvre in Paris, the Uffizi in Florence, the Met in New York, and the National Gallery in London.
Just double checked and indeed the Prado is still considered one of the world's best art museums, along with the Louvre in Paris, the Uffizi in Florence, the Met in New York, and the National Gallery in London.
◉ A total solar eclipse is always a thrill, and exploring Spain’s three
great cities made the journey feel deeper and even more rewarding.
